What makes an exhibition dahlia

[Raymond]

Hello forum,

Don't know if I should post this in beginners thread but I thought might be better seperate. 

Can I ask the experts what makes a true exhibition dahlia and what seperates it from a very good dahlia but not quite show class ? 

I am shortlisting  my varieties for next year and I want the vast majority to be what would be deemed exhibition standard even if only a single plant in my garden display.

I have been looking on various websites in the catalogues and also in the new classified directory but some say a variety is exhibition grade also good for garden and cut flowers then others contradict it and some no info at all. 

For example 

Hillcrest royal med cactus in classified directory recommended as exhibition garden and cutting but halls say only garden and cutting ? Which is correct ?

Also with other dahlias not classified how would you know if they are of suitable standard to exhibit ? I like one called Mayan pearl is an agm winner but is it suitable in any class ?

Another example is hollyhill firelight med semi cactus eurodahlia says suitable for exhibition but others say no and also unclassified. 

Apologies if this is a stupid question but it does get very confusing to a beginner.

With such a vast array of dahlias to choose from and some truly beautiful ones that look good to my beginners eye it is hard knowing what to pick. 

National dahlia collection for example give no info if suitable for exhibition. They have 2 kiwis I have never heard of called kiwi brother and kiwi sisiter are they suitable ?

Any info a beginner can use to assess and what to look for would be great.

My main show ones for next year are already selected from advise given on these forums and I very much appreciate that 

Best regards 

[scrumpy]

If you base your list on what everyone grows on here then you won't go far wrong.
Putting it another way, no-one grows hillcrest royal or hollyhill firelight.

[Raymond]

Hahaha ! These where for front garden display scrumpy. Liked the colours. I will keep looking and deciding.

One question as my second small cactus or semi cactus I was looking at

Yellow Lakeland sunset or
Gilwood Terry g
Cherwell lapwing
Lavender line
Ruskin andrea to go with ryecroft zoe.

I need 2 cultivars for one of the novice classes.

I could try one of the goldcrests but not easy to wake up from all accounts.

Will try a kiwi but only one plant.

My others for show are

Mary's Jomanda
Winholme Diane
Taratahi ruby or Kilburn rose
Weston min probably pirate or ryecroft pixie that is it for show ones grown in enough qty.

All the rest for garden display but if I get a good single bloom then it is something extra. Some will do 3 of a plant.

My question is though how do you know what is a good one and in trying something new what do you look for in a bloom for being a top exhibition bloom if grown well.

[markb]

What constitutes a good exhibition cultivar is one that produces blooms that conform to the standards set out in the classified directory, Raymond.

'Hollyhill Firelight' which you mention, although unclassified, would be a medium cactus, so the petals would need to be rolled (revolute) for more than 50% of their length and be either straight or incurving. They would also need to have a round outline (when viewed from above), be fully double (no open centres), dress back at least two-thirds of their width to the stem (an 8-inch wide bloom would need to be at least 5.5 to 6 inches in depth). There are other considerations as well but I don't have the new classified book yet so don't know what has been changed.

As exhibitors we are always looking for perfection but, as a well-known National vegetable champion would say: "Strive for perfection, but settle for excellence".

For a second small semi-cactus I would suggest Ryecroft Zoe or Ruskin Andrea as they can both be allowed to carry a lot of blooms. I've grown Ruskin Andrea the last couple of years and for me it is a 20+ bloom per plant to keep the size down.

Hope this helps

[Raymond]

Many thanks markb I have read a lot in the new classified book I got mine 2 weeks ago it's just understanding it all.

I know you need length of stem and it must be proportionate to the bloom. Petal formation and size etc.....

I do like some different ones for display but want to learn what is good what to avoid but also have something show worthy but not necessarily to show if you understand my meaning. 

Thanks for the suggestion on the Ruskin.

[scrumpy]

I've grown Ruskin Andrea the last couple of years and for me it is a 20+ bloom per plant to keep the size down.

or in my case even more. Had my first NAS at Malvern with Andrea. I forgot to take my ring with me, had 4 to choose from and when I cut them they were just OK. Obviously one grew a bit before judging. So yes, early stop, if not many laterals a double stop,and no disbudding.
It's one of those that is probably better for garden display as it has loads of flowers, but does give good exhibition blooms.

[ian]

OK the best place to start is the classified directory this will give you the ideals of each classification. The next place to start is the results of the top shows Wisley, Harrogate, Scotland. You will find these in the National Dahlia annual.
You will find varieties Kenora Challenger, one of the Moonlights, Hillcrest Candy (some judges are blinded by) Trelyn Kiwi or Gloria,Oakwood or Cherwell Goldcrest, Mary's Jomanda, Whinholme Diane or another Diane it used to be that traditionally a medium dec was required now medium decs have always been the Cinderella section with varieties like Charlie Mascot three (hehe) Charlie Two, Mascot Maya (correct spelling) to the two sports Alf's Mascot or White Charlie Two being shown, not good varieties at all but you probably need to grow these if you are going for multi vase medium classes but not for me at all. I do of course do not let this affect my judging but better mediums are the likes of Hillcrest Kismet, Trengrove Millennium, and Andrea Clarke. Then of course Miniature decs are being shown very well the likes of Marston George (a good one as some judges cannot see the faults as it is very dark and as long as it has a centre, you are in) Marston Suzanne, Rossendale Lewis has nearly perfect form but suffers sometimes with weak centres and others. Pompon's such as Rhonda, Gurtla Twilight, Willos Violet are now being shown and scoring well.

So what makes them show varieties most of the ones I have mentioned with good cultivation side shooting and careful maintenance will reward you with showable blooms. Why because they are near to the the ideals as stated in the directory.

You should always start with the centres of the blooms when judging they should be all be the same then work outwards ie outline shape (quality of the blooms should always aver ride mere size) freshness, colour and then stems. Then anything that distracts from the ideal is considered a fault ie limp florets, colour fading and discoloration, gaps a swirly petals, blemishes and marks. Some are considered as serious faults are minor faults. All this info is within the classified.

You will win with other varieties, but these I have mentioned are the ones that are usually in the frame and most top exhibitors grow. Some cannot grow Moonlights that well so Hillcrest Candy is a good choice and does some winning. Kiwis won't grow for some people but others grown top their potential will beat the kiwis, Oakwood being one and Zoe as I say if grown to its potential.

I like growing many varieties but my bankers will have Challenger, A moonlight, a Diane, a kiwi and a miniature in the mix and next year a good medium dec. It does not worry me in showing a new novelty seedling (new variety) in my Championship (I did this with Rossendale Lewis when I won the National Championship the first time) but it has to conform with the ideals set out.

When you are assessing your blooms be very critical and try looking at your blooms as a judge might or should, judging what you see in front of you and they should have very few faults.

Whatever you grow it is best to set your stall out and aim for something whether it is a couple of novices classes or a National Championship you need to have something to aim for.

Enjoy you Dahlias and grow what you like but if you want to be in the cards take the advice.

What ever works for me may or may not work for you soil position geography down South or up North with the real growers (hehe) cultivation is very important do not over feed and give them plenty of water.

It is great taking part it is even better winning.......... Also giving advice. But most of all enjoy our great chosen flower.

Hope this helps Ian

[ian]

Always strive to be better next time the exhibitor who won at Malvern has a sign above his door in his cabin which says bigger and better next year and this is an exhibitor that has shown for 25 years plus.

[Raymond]

Thank you ian  I understand all that everyone's says you sometimes wonder why there are so many varieties in the classified directory when really only a small percentage are used which is a pity.

I personally do not like hillcrest candy for example. 

What I was meaning with the thread in the first place was not so much in terms of fully competitive growing which I will follow the advise to the letter but figuring out and assessing what else there is and what makes a good dahlia and what makes a great dahlia breed. You see a picture online and you go thats nice but is it showable in terms of the ideals? And if grown to full potential.  Some varieties the info is poor you don't know if good stems or depth etc.. it would be great if their was a real in depth analysis on this fascinating flower. I have seen there is a dahlia encyclopedia which I may purchase.

Having read through the guide a number of times now I am starting to see what is necessary. I want to be very critical of my own blooms know what is good and what is bad. I would say 95 percent of my current blooms have had major faults. I Also would like to try new things for garden display only and if successful then perhaps show them in future years if the relevant varieties plus learning what you are good at etc.... This is the beginning of the journey for me and I have a huge amount to learn regarding all things dahlias.

All this advise is truly wonderful and very much appreciated. 

First thing to learn the dahlia lingo  scrumpy 

It is great to hear what a judge looks for. Which i saw some of at Kent earlier in the month. I have read that part of the directory a number of times. 

Ps I am Scottish down south does that mean I qualify with the better northern growers    hahaha 

I have posted my nds membership forms with the cheque and ordered all the literature the rings the DVD etc... 

All the best 

Raymond 

[ian]

You will only truly know how a variety will perform until you grow it for yourself have a look over the years and the same varieties with one or two exceptions. You will probably find this with other sections pot plants Chrysanthemums, pinks, Carnations they will all have their bankers and they will change very slowly.

[Raymond]

That I have realised ian I have never thought to show any flowers etc... So it is a very stark awakening but also fun

[scrumpy]

The only other thing to remember is that when choosing a variety, you need to know it's growing habits. Look at the descriptions given, or ring the supplier.
For example, it can be better to grow say a small variety that will take say 10 blooms per plant, as opposed to one that will only take 5. That means if you are growing fewer plants you get a better chance of getting some decent blooms.
If you don't like the Candy's, the Pastelle family are an alternative. I found primrose to be the most reliable.

[Raymond]

Hi scrumpy I will speak to Dave Spencer and Andrew aspital and they will give me the info and with zoe I can't think of anyone better than yourself plus people like tel and Ian have been wonderful and I sure they can guide me well.

All my show ones will be small or min.

I will try some med and large but only in front display for me to play with.

Focus solely on the back double row and the 15 large pots. 35 plants maybe 40 will added extra lawn removed.

I will supplement some of them in the front as well.

Four main classes only.

Varieties

2x small cactus or semi cactus
Zoe + another
1x small or min ball
Marys Jomanda
1x small Dec or min Dec
Winholm Diane or a barberry
1x waterlily
Taratahi ruby or Kilburn rose

In front as extra min cac or semi cac

Plus try a pom and some med and large.

Thats the lot. What I will do in the front though is any med or large I do will be 3 to 4 plants might get a decent single bloom if really lucky.

[derekbrooks]

Every time I go to a show I make a note of the varieties that have won the prizes and keep a record of them in a book. I do this not only with dahlias but everything else as well.

[Raymond]

derekbrooks I have a note of what won in Kent. Only show I have been to Derek  Been looking online and making notes from Midlands harrogate nationals in previous years.

You do find a big distinction in what the southern growers show compared to the northern growers at top level.

You don't see Dave Spencer trying a kiwi or a moonlight and he is near me.

Phil Watson and Frankie Fraser show very different blooms as further north. Dcs best bloom this year a moonlight.

Lots of research to do but I am getting there. It is very interesting. Need to find out the winners in Surrey and Essex that will help me in my choices. 

The goldcrests do well down here so I do have to factor them in. 

Oh I will be growing crysants for the first time next year. Purely for garden display. any recommendations ?